Red in Steel city

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The customs officer asked me why I’d want to go to Pittsburgh. I was too tired and too cranky to answer him. Today I wish I had said,

Because the Rachel Carson Bridge is next to the Andy Warhol Bridge. Because there are American Revolutionary soldiers buried smack in the middle of downtown in a cemetery the size of my apartment. Because a man lugging a keg of beer into an Irish pub put it back on the sidewalk and leaned on it so he had the breath to wish me good day. Because when I passed for the third time the same elderly man sitting on his stoop, he pointed to my canvas bag that said “The Lost Girl,” slapped his knees, and chortled, “That’s right!” Because lost in the Mexican War Streets I stumbled upon both the birthplace of Gertrude Stein and the home of George Washington Gale Ferris, Jr., who invented the Ferris Wheel. Because a gentleman carrying his very ladylike little Japanese Chin stood next to me while I was taking photos of old steel crests and talked about urban renewal and historical legacies, and then when I asked for the most scenic route downtown he appraised me and said, “I would be comfortable with you on the 6^th Street Bridge, not that I’m saying anything about mayhem, but that would make me the most comfortable.” (Was it the big eyes and the Lost Girl bag?) Because viewing the gorgeous Millvale Murals at St. Nicholas Croatian Catholic Church, a Pete Seeger-quoting retired nurse swung klieg lights around the walls and brandished her cane at the more significant details. Because of the kid at the Strip District coffeeshop explaining to his outraged girlfriend that he’d had to take down the barista for taking his coffee way too seriously, and also for playing Nirvana “like we’re fucking Seattle or something.” Because everywhere I turned some guy called me 'Red.' Because crickets sing all summer long, but their crickets sound like an orchestra performing Beethoven’s 5^th with buzzsaws. Because the Ohio River is born and rolls away right at the point of Pittsburgh’s downtown. Because if you want to watch the glorious copper-and-slate sunset, you’re going to have to watch it set over Heinz Field, goddammit. The sun is just a fair-to-middling star but the Steelers are the Steelers.